INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

We know that conscious, educated consumers want natural, paraben-free products and they also want highly technical, efficacious results. They know the effects of dermatologist loved ingredients like vitamin C, glycolic acid, alpha hydroxy acids and peptides, and want them in the purest form possible.

Knowing this, we went into the chemistry lab armed with a list of 100 ingredients we couldn’t use. 175 formulas, we launched a highly technical skincare brand which fuses dermatologist loved, potent ingredients and vitamin-packed, effective and researched naturals. The result is M-61.

There are over 100 ingredients that are not allowed in the M-61 line. All products contain anti-inflammatory ingredients to balance the aggressive treatments. Many products are gluten free and/or vegan.

Nature

ALOE

  • Treats wounds, skin infections, burns, and acne scarring.
  • Increase synthesis of collagen and production of hyaluronic acid in skin. [1]

BILBERRY EXTRACT

  • Found in the mountains of Europe and North America, related to the both the blueberry and huckleberry.
  • Rich in procyanidin which reduces inflammation. [2]

CAMPHOR

  • Treats irritation and itching.

CENTELLA ASIATICA

  • Strengthens skin and increases blood supply to wounds. [3]
  • Treats minor burns, helps remove stretch marks, prevents scars from surgery, and eases psoriasis. [4]

CHAMOMILE

  • Functions as an antimicrobial, antiallergic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and analgesic.
  • Approved by the German Commission E for inflammatory mucocutaneous diseases and wound and burn therapy.

COLLOIDAL OATMEAL

  • Soothes rashes and dries skin patches (eczema).
  • Reduces inflammation caused by breakouts. [5]

Cucumber

  • Antioxidant vitamin C brightens, antioxidant vitamin K fights dark circles under the eyes.
  • Vitamin B5 helps skin retain moisture.
  • Vitamin A, or retinol, fights dark spots.
  • Soothing, cooling, reduce swelling and relieve minor skin irritations.

GALLIC ACID

  • An organic fruit acid found in blueberries, walnuts, apples, flaxseed, and witch hazel.
  • Used as a skin-lightening agent for the improvement of skin pigmentation.
  • Toxic to cancer cells while having no negative effect on healthy cells. [6]

GOJI BERRY

  • A powerful antioxidant high in astaxanthin, contains more beta-carotene than carrots.
  • Helps to fight inflammation and encourage new skin cell growth.
  • Phytochemicals help to prevent the oxidation of DNA and helped to restore damaged DNA.

GOLDENBERRY

  • Used for centuries in traditional medicine in high-altitude, tropical Peru, Colombia, and Ecuador.
  • Preliminary evidence shows that its constituents polyphenols and carotenoids may have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

GREEN TEA (CAMELLIA OLEIFERA)

  • Reduces inflammation while providing antioxidant effects. [7]
  • High in Polyphenols with exceptional antioxidant activity.
  • Rich in plant collagen, Omega 3, 6 & 9, and Vitamins B, D, & E.

LAVENDER

  • Useful against anti-fungal infections. [8]
  • Increases relaxation during cosmetic procedures. [9]

LICORICE

  • Promote skin elasticity and fights inflammation and wrinkle formation.
  • Helps soothe irritation and reduce redness, rashes, itching, and swelling.
  • Consistent use over time has been known to fade dark spots and blemishes, and lighten skin.

MENTHOL

  • Known for its cooling effect as it triggers cold-sensitive receptors.
  • Can reduce redness and increase circulation to invigorate dull, tired complexions.

PAPAYA

  • Helps remove dead skin cells, exfoliating and brightening the skin.
  • Antioxidant vitamins A, C, E and carotenoids reduce inflammation of the skin.
  • An effective treatment for various wounds and burns.

SEABUCKTHORN

  • Powerful antioxidant, rich in moisturizing omegas 3, 6, 7 & 9, noted for protecting the skin from aging free radicals.
  • A valuable topical agent in treating burns and healing wounds.

SEAWEED

  • Red Algae, astaxanthin, is an antioxidant that improves elasticity and moisture retention. [10]
  • Reduces inflammatory effects and protects against UVB. [11] [12]

SHEA BUTTER

  • Found in the fat of the nut of the African Shea tree (vitellaria paradoxa).
  • Has anti-inflammatory benefits and anti-cancer effects. [13]

SOY

  • Rich in antiflavones, stimulates collagen and has anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Reduces hyperpigmentation, enhances skin elasticity, controls oil production, moisturizes the skin, and delays hair regrowth
  • Has the potential to decrease photoaging of the skin and prevent skin cancers through the estrogen-type and antioxidant effects of its metabolites.

TAMARIND

  • Increases efficiency of wound healing. [14]
  • Improves skin elasticity, hydration, and smoothness.
  • Aids in skin moisturization and the smoothing of fine lines and wrinkles. [15]

TEA TREE

  • Derived from tea trees grown in Australia.
  • Treats cuts, burns and insect bites.
  • Inhibits inflammation, itching, and burning. [16]
  • Treats mild to moderate acne. [17]

WHITE MULBERRY

  • Rich in vitamin A, potassium, phosphorus and calcium, mulberries contain the highest levels of antioxidants of any berries.
  • Can reduce the appearance of dark spots and brighten the skin.

WITCH HAZEL

  • An anti-inflammatory with antioxidant and anti-fungal effects. [18]
  • Recommended for psoriasis, eczema, aftershave applications, cracked or blistered skin.
  • Treats insect bites and poison ivy. [19]
  • Treats varicose veins and hemorrhoids.

YACON

  • Topical yacon acts as an anti-inflammatory agent on the skin.
  • Historically used in South American herbal medicine as a treatment for diabetes and arthritis.



Science

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS

  • Alpha hydroxy acids work mainly as exfoliants
  • Remove dead skin cells to make way for regrowth
  • Stimulate the production of collagen and elastin
  • Improve wrinkling, roughness and pigmentation of photodamaged skin [20]

GLYCOLIC ACID

  • Promotes the reduction of wrinkles, acne scarring, and hyperpigmentation
  • Improves actinic keratosis, hyperkeratosis and seborrheic keratosis
  • Exfoliates, exposing live skin cells [21]

HYALURONIC ACID

    LACTIC ACID

    • Alpha hydroxy acid derived from milk.

    MALIC ACID

    • Alpha hydroxy acid derived from apples and pears.

    PEPTIDES

    • Behaves like Botox, blocking nerve signals sent to facial muscles
    • Smoothes the appearance of wrinkles by relaxing tense muscles that cause crow’s feet, smile lines, and frown lines
    • Stimulates collagen building [22]
    • Drastically improves the skin’s cell production, thickening the skin and plumping wrinkles from within [23]

    SALICYLIC ACID

    • A beta hydroxy acid that penetrates into the pores
    • Contains sebum that exfoliates dead skin cells built up inside the pore [24]

    VITAMIN A

    • Stimulates the production of new skin cells
    • Inhibits the body’s natural enzymes that break down collagen [25]

    VITAMIN B5

    • Stabilizes the skin barrier function, reducing the amount of water lost through the skin [26]
    • Ideal for the treatment of dry, scaly, or rough skin [27]

    VITAMIN C/L-ASCORBIC ACID

    • Protects against future UVA and UVB sun damage
    • Helps repair existing photo-damage and stimulates collagen growth [28]
    • The only antioxidant proven to stimulate collagen synthesis
    • Alleviates skin inflammation [29]
    • Regenerates Vitamin E

    VITAMIN E (TOCOPHEROL)

    • Neutralizes free radical damage
    • Protects against UV damage and promotes healing [30]

    Vitamin K

    • Helps clear bruises and improve the appearance of skin.
    • Reduces facial discoloration caused by poor circulation, skin irritation and scarring.



    Citations


    [1] Influence of Aloe polysaccharide on proliferation and hyaluronic acid and hydroxyproline secretion of human fibroblasts in vitro. Liu LY, Chen XD, Wu BY, Jiang Q. Provincial Burns Institute, Union Hospital, Fujian Medical University, Fuzhou 350001, Fujian Province, China. 2010 Mar;8(3):256-62

    [2] Sime, S, Reeve, VE: Protection from inflammation, immunosuppression and carcinogenesis induced by UV radication in mice by topical Pycogenol. Photochem Photobiol 2004 70:193-198

    [3] “Italian Journal of Biochemistry”; Effect of the Triterpenoid Traction of Centella Asiatica on Macromolecules of the Connective Matrix in Human Skin Fibroblast Cultures; R. Tenni, et al.; Mar 1988

    [4] “Journal of Ethnopharmacology”; In Vitro and in Vivo Wound Healing Activity of Asiaticoside Isolated From Centella Asiatica; A. Shukla, et al,; April 1999

    [5] Mechanism of Action and Clinical Benefits of Colloidal Oatmeal for Dermatologic Practice. Cerio et al. Journal of Drugs and Dermatology, September 2010

    [6] Gallic Acid Induces G2/M phase Arrest of Breast Cancer Cell, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, February 7, 2011.

    [7] Green tea extract protects human skin fibroblasts from reactive oxygen species induced necrosis. Silverbag JI, Jagdeo J, Patel M, Siegel D, Brody N. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011 Oct 1;10(10):1096-101

    [8] Chemical composition and antifungal activity of the essential oils of Lavandula viridis. Journal of Medical Microbiology. May 2011. Monica Zuzarte, et al.

    [9] Grunebaum, L.D., Murdock, J., Castanedo-Tardan, M.P. and Baumann, L.S. (2011), Effects of lavender olfactory input on cosmetic procedures. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 10: 89-93. Doi: 10.1111/j. 1473-2165.2011.00554.x

    [10] Camera, E., Mastrofrancesco, A., Fabbri, C., Daubrawa, F., Picardo, M., Sies, H. and Stahl, W. (2009), Astaxanthin, canthaxanthin and D-carotene differently affect UVA-induced oxidative damage and expression of oxidative stress-responsive enzymes. Experimental Dermatology, 18: 222-231. doi: 20.1111/j.1600-0625.2008.00790.x

    [11] Lee, S.J. etal., (2003), Astaxanthing Inhibits Nitric Oxide Production and Inflammatory Gene Expression by Suprressing I?B Kinase-dependent NF-?B Activation. Molecules and Cells, Vol. 16, No.1.

    [12] Abstracts from the SCCANZ Skin Cancer Conference, June 3-5, 2011 Gold Coast, Australie. Photoprotective Effects of Carrageenan Against UVB-Irradiation in Human Keratinocytes Hacat Cells. Mohamed, S.M, HO. S.K., Aboo-Sufee, S.M.I, Vangeta, Chu, W.L.

    [13] J Oleo Sci. 2010; 59(6):273-80. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, T Masters E, Manosroi A, Manosroi J.

    [14] Tamarind Seed Extract Enhances Epidermal Wound Healing, January 1, 2012, International Journal of Biology, Mohd Yusof bin Mohamad, Haris Bakram & Dinie Najwa Bero

    [15] Tamarind Extract: A Better Way to get the Properties of Hyaluronic Acid in a Dry Skin State. K. Schweikert, V. Kahlhofer, B. Gabard. March 2005

    [16] Koh, K., Pearce, A., Marshman, G., Finlay-Jones, J. and Hart, P. (2002), Tea tree oil reduces histamine-induced skin inflammation. British Journal of Dermatology, 147: 1212–1217. doi: 10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.05034.

    [17] Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2007 Jan–Feb;73(1):22–5. The efficacy of 5% topical tea tree oil gel in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind placebo-controlled study.Enshaieh S, Jooya A, Siadat AH, Iraji F.

    [18] Erdelmeier, C. A. J. et al. Antiviral and Antiphlogistic Activities of Hamamelis virginiana Bark. Planta Medica, 62(1996)(3):241–245

    [19] Korting, H. C., et al. “Comparative Efficacy of Hamamelis Distillate and Hydrocortisone. European Journal of Clinical Pharmacology 48(1995 (6):461 465.

    [20] Clin Dermatol. 1996 Mar-Apr;14(2):217-26. Alpha-hydroxyacids in the treatment of signs of photoaging. Van Scott EJ, Ditre CM, Yu RJ.

    [21] “Journal of Dermatological Science”; The Efficacy of Glycolic Acid for Treating Wrinkles; Y. Funasaka, Y. et al; Aug. 2001

    [22] Blanes-Mira, C; et al. (October 2002). “A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity”. Int J Cosmet Sci 24 (5): 303–10. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x. PMID 18498523

    [23] ABU SAMAH, N. H. and HEARD, C. M. (2011), Topically applied KTTKS: a review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33: 483–490. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00657.x

    [24] Davies, M. and Marks, R. (1976), Studies on the effect of salicylic acid on normal skin. British Journal of Dermatology, 95: 187–192. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.1976.tb00825.x

    [25] Vitamin A antagonizes Decreased Cell Growth and Elevated Collagen-Degrading Matrix Metalloproteinases and Stimulates Collagen Accumulation in Naturally Aged Human Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2000. Varani et al.

    [26] American Journal of Clinical Dermatology; Topical Use of Dexpanthenol in Skin Disorders; Fritz Ebner, Andreas Heller, Frank Rippke and Irene Tausch; 2002.

    [27] Journal of Dermatological Treatment; Dexpanthenol Enhances Skin Barrier Repair and Reduces Inflammation After Sodium Lauryl Sulphate-Induced Irritation; Ehrhardt Proksch, MD, PhD and Nissen, MD; 2002

    [28] Sheldon R. Pinnell, MD and Doren L. Madey, PhD, Aesthetic Surgery Journal May/June 1999) “Topical vitamin c protects porcine skin from ultraviolet rationation-induced damage,” Darr D. Combs S., Manning T, Pinnell S. Br J Dermatol. 1992 Sep;127(3):247-53.

    [29] Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2001) 116, 853–859; doi:10.1046/j.0022-202x.2001.01362. Topically Applied Vitamin C Enhances the mRNA Level of Collagens I and III, Their Processing Enzymes and Tissue Inhibitor of Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 in the Human Dermis. Betty V Nusgens, Philippe Humbert, André Rougier, Alain C Colige, Marek aftek, Charles A Lambert, Alain Richard, Pierre Creidi and Charles M Lapière

    [30] Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2005) 124, 304–307; doi:10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.23560.x Ultraviolet B-Induced DNA Damage in Human Epidermis Is Modified by the Antioxidants Ascorbic Acid and D- -Tocopherol Marianne Placzek, Sabine Gaube, Urs Kerkmann, Klaus-Peter Gilbertz, Thomas Herzinger, Ekkehard Haen and Bernhard Przybilla